Nestled amidst the lush green arms of the Western Ghats in Kollegal taluk in Chamarajnagar, the Dzogchen Monastery is a hidden piece of Tibet in Karnataka.
According to official records, after the original Dzogchen Monastery (one of the six major Nyingma monasteries of Tibetan Buddhists) located in present-day Sichuan, China, was destroyed by fire in the 1950s, the 14th Dalai Lama chose this particular place within the Dhondenling Tibetan settlement to re-establish the monastery and make it the official seat of the 7th Dzogchen Rinpoche, Jikme Losel Wangpo.
While construction of the monastery began in 1984 with the help of the Governments of India and Karnataka, it was inaugurated in January 1992 by the Dalai Lama.
The Dzogchen Monastery in the Dhondenling Tibetan Settlement in Kollegal. Photo by authorThe Dhondenling Settlement, established in 1974, is set at the foothills of Biligiriranga Hills (BR Hills) at a height of 3345 ft. It is home to several Tibetan settlements and five major monasteries, surrounded by mountains, coffee plantations and an animal reserve. 'Dhondenling' which literally means 'the land of fulfillment' in Tibetan, has 22 villages or refugee camps with 25 to 35 families in each camp.
Don't support Tibetan independence: China to USThe drive to the settlement is itself scenic and peaceful - setting the mood for what Dhondenling has to offer. Prayer flags fluttering in the wind, stupas rising to the sky, the prayer wheels waiting to be turned and clean villages transport you to a different world.
The Dzogchen Monastery, the largest monastery of the settlement, is spread over around 3,100 acres and is built in Tibetan style architecture, with colourful murals and paintings. The monastery has a simple layout with the prayer hall at the heart. We visited on a weekday and apart from a few monks running to the dining hall for lunch, there was no one else around. The calmness and serenity are palpable and we spent almost an hour in the prayer hall.
A mural on the outer wall of the Dzogchen MonasteryAdjacent to the monastery are a couple of shops selling Tibetan Buddhist items, souvenirs, jewellery, paintings, carpets and clothes. There is a local market nearby with a few more shops and a couple of eateries that serve authentic Tibetan cusines.
The monastery comes to life during Tibetan Buddhist Festivals like the Losar (Tibetan New Year) and visits by important Lamas.
While we first visited the waterfalls at Shivanasamudra before visiting Dzogchen Monastery, you can also combine a visit to the monastery with a trip to BR Hills or Male Mahadeshwara Temple, both of which are approximately a two-hour drive away.