I wake up at the crack of dawn for my scheduled visit to the only floating vegetable market in Kashmir's Dal Lake, but even before I can venture out of my houseboat, I'm spellbound.
As the birds chirp away, paving the path for the first ray of light to hit the summer capital of Jammu and Kashmir, I sip on my piping hot cup of khawa and glance over my shoulder. I catch a stork foot-stirring the water for aquatic prey, before turning my head toward a thick bed of lotuses sitting prettily opposite my porch.
The air, too, plays into the morning drama - misty yet mindful. And as the fog brushes against my face, I shut my eyes for a second and a shikarawala paddles past me, crooning what I was later told was a Kashmiri swansong.
"Srinagar is a romantic poem in motion," I declare, and my fellow travellers nod in agreement. This city often ends up being a stopover to its more famous neighbours, such as Gulmarg, Sonmarg, and the like. What's more, it can be explored within a 48-hour window.
Day 1
Start with the Shankaracharya Temple: I began my day with a serene drive up the hill to the Shankaracharya Temple, one of Srinagar's oldest and most revered shrines. From the top, the entire city opened up below me - Dal Lake shimmering in the soft light, mountains wrapping the valley like a quiet embrace. Entry fee: Free
Descend to the Pari Mahal: Then, I wandered down to Pari Mahal, its cascading terraces offering picture-perfect views of Srinagar. Walking through the old arches and gardens, I felt like I'd stepped into a quiet slice of history suspended above the city. Entry fee: Indians: Rs 20, foreign nationals: Rs 100
Follow it up with visits to the nearby Chashme Shahi, Nishat Bagh, and Shalimar Bagh.
Chashme Shahi: I stopped at Chashme Shahi to sip from its famed natural spring and stroll through the neatly manicured terraces, which was undoubtedly a refreshing little pause surrounded by blooming gardens. Entry fee: Rs 20 per person
Nishat Bagh: At Nishat Bagh, I traced the long pathways lined with fountains, with the Zabarwan range rising grandly behind me and Dal Lake stretching wide in front. It's a view I could admire for hours and never grow out of it. Entry fee: Rs 30 per person
Shalimar Bagh: With ancient chinar trees casting gentle shade, it transported me straight to the Mughal-era pavilions.
Entry fee: Rs 20 per person
Opt for a shikara ride to Chaar Chinar Gardens and Hazratbal Mosque: In the late afternoon, I made my way to one of the ghats at Dal Lake and boarded a shikara, gliding over Dal Lake's glassy waters. The ride felt almost dreamlike as I drifted onto the small patch of land leading up to the iconic Chaar Chinar Gardens before heading towards the serene white silhouette of Hazratbal Mosque, a peaceful end to a day spent exploring Srinagar.
Entry fee: Free
Shikara ride: As the city's skyline turns blue-tangerine in colour, begin your sunset shikara ride. The shikarawalas call the golden hour boat ride the "sunset" or "honeymoon ride". I can see why. This is where you do your most dramatic photos and videos for the 'gram.
Entry fee: Between Rs 1,000 and 1,500 for an hour-long shikara ride. Pro tip: Haggle!
Traditional Wazwan dinner: I ended my night with a traditional Wazwan dinner at a local restaurant, which was a grand Kashmiri feast centred around rich, slow-cooked meat dishes like rogan josh, yakhni, gushtaba, and tabak maaz, among others.
Price: Rs 2,000 for two (approx.)
Day 2
Start your day with a trip to the floating vegetable market on Dal Lake: I set out before sunrise, gliding through quiet waterways to the market. Surrounded by boats piled high with fresh produce and early-morning chatter, it felt like witnessing Srinagar wake up from the water itself.
Entry fee: You only have to pay for the shikara ride (Rs 1,000-1,200 approx.)
Head over to the Jawaharlal Nehru Memorial Botanical Gardens: Wide lawns, fresh mountain air, and bursts of flowers made for a calm, scenic stroll beneath the Zabarwan range. Entry fee: Indians: Rs 25, foreign nationals: Rs 300
Follow it up with a trip to the soothing Achabal Garden: The sound of gushing spring water and the shade of old chinar trees created a soothing retreat, a quiet and much-needed pause in the middle of the day.
Entry fee: Rs 40 per person
Step into the iconic Jamia Masjid Srinagar: As I enter the masjid with its grand wooden pillars and serene courtyard framed by chinar trees, I felt the calm of centuries-old faith and history settling gently around me.
Tip: respect local traditions and cover your head and dress modestly.
Entry fee: Free
Explore Koker Bazar in Lal Chowk: In the afternoon, I wandered through one of Srinagar's oldest markets - picking up a small box of saffron, those renowned Kashmiri spices such as Kashmiri laal mirch powder and kanwal masala tikki, and little silverware as souvenirs while weaving through its bustling yet intimate lanes.
Mutton rogan josh and Kashmiri pulao dinner: For dinner, I headed to a local favourite restaurant for a taste of mutton rogan josh and fragrant Kashmiri pulao - both part of the valley's famed wazwan tradition, and it was iconic (taste-wise) to say the least.